Val Cenis - eat, drink, party

Mountain restaurants

There are several on-mountain places to eat above Val Cenis. Two are located at key junctions, such as the Chalet La Féma  (+33 4 79 05 90 98) at the top of the Vieux Moulin gondola and Le Refuge (+33 4 79 05 82 49) at the top of the Ramasse chairlift. However, it’s worth the extra effort to find gems such as Le Relais du Col du Mont Cenis (+33 4 79 59 47 84 ). Pedestrians can reach the Col to dine at this classic roadside (it is in summer) hotel restaurant from the top of the Ramasse chairlift with snowshoes, or you can ski there from the red Goulet piste. Packed with interesting artifacts, the interior is from a bygone age but on a sunny winter’s day you can sit outside and en-joy traditional local dishes. The Chalet La Ranôva (+33 6 84 07 50 01) is quite easy to miss, being tucked away to the left of the red Arcelle piste. Renovated from a ruined stone building, the com-pact dining room is usually packed with skiers enjoying a variety of snacks or a freshly prepared plat du jour for around €15. For vegetarians staff will happily mix and match menu items to suit - the Tarte au Beaufort was particularly good.

At the foot of the slopes you’ll find several snack bars and cafés with sunny terraces, like the Le Petit Chalet - perfect for a coffee break or to meet fellow skiers.

Above Termignon the only mountain restaurant is L’Arole on the Replat des Canons (2100m), a convenient self-serve, but best avoided in favour of dining in one of the villages or on the slopes at Val Cenis.

In Bonneval, the welcoming Criou (www.restaurant-lecriou.com ) restaurant is situated at 2100m at the top of the Vallonet chairlift. Apart from the amazing views, it offers snacks and Savoyard dishes. Alternatively, conveniently situated at the foot of the slopes, La Piatou (+33 4 79 05 97 78) serves snacks and drinks, with a view of the pistes.

Restaurants in town

In both Lanslebourg and Lanslevillard you’ll find a good selection of convivial restaurants serving traditional Savoyard food, classic French stand-bys like steak and chips, plus the ubiquitous pizza and Piedmontais dishes from the Italian regions just across the border. In Lanslebourg, the wel-coming La Vanoise (+33 4 79 05 86 16 ) at the lower end of the main street is a popular choice, serving a varied menu in a cheerful setting. There is also the friendly C2 Bar - restaurant and restaurant Les 2 Mousses. Situated near the Tourist Office, La Vielle Poste is a traditional hotel restaurant where you can get an excellent meal, either gastronomic or Savoyard in style. In Termignon there is the new Le Bric à Brac restaurant.

Lanslevillard has one or two traditional style restaurants though the mood at this end of the resort is more one of informality and family dining. Howard’s Pub on Rue Saint Landry (+33 6 69 39 28 95) sells home-made burgers using fresh ingredients, while Le Bois du Cerf on the Montée du Coin (+33 4 79 05 24 90) serves crispy-base pizzas baked in a wood-fired oven and is a good venue for family dining. Friendly Restaurant L'Estanco has great food and plenty of convivial ambience.

Bonneval has a handful of village restaurants serving mainly traditional Savoyard specialities, alt-hough you can always find a good pizza, such as at La Benna (+33 4 79 05 83 78 ) not far from the bridge at the entry to the village. Here you’ll also find the deservedly-popular Au Vieux Pont Res-taurant (+33 4 79 05 94 07), with a typically Savoyard menu and a warm welcome, whether at lunchtimes or evenings. Explore the old village and you’ll find the Auberge d’Oul, where it’s best to reserve a table to enjoy regional specialities in authentic surroundings.

Après-ski & nightlife

When the pistes close, Val Cenis mostly settles down for a quiet evening, where an aprés-ski drink in a friendly bar is about as exciting as it gets. Families head for the Piscine du Parc des Glières at Lanslevillard (+33 4 79 05 89 32) –  an aqua centre with swimming pool, jacuzzi, wellbeing centre and ice-skating rink. Adult entry costs 4.60€, closed Saturday. The Ô des Cimes - Altitude SPA at the Résidence CGH les Chalets de Flambeau (+33 4 79 83 47 30 ) is open to non-residents and offers a large range of beauty treatments, wellbeing massages, saunas and Turkish baths. Head towards Bessans and you’ll come across the Sauna Cosmic (+33 6 45 49 45 66) for an alternative, invigorating sauna with mountain views and cold water plunge in the often-frozen lake.

Le 1480 bowling alley and pub is situated at the foot of the Val Cenis Le Haut gondola and offers free WiFi access. It has 6 bowling lanes, a relaxed bar lounge, games room, sports on TV plus a restaurant and is open 9-30am until 1-00am during winter. Both Lanslevillard and Lanslebourg have single-screen cinemas (www.cinemavalcenis.com/) which open every night except Saturday. There are also gigs at Chardon Bleu and C2 Bar.